Tuesday, November 4, 2008
Rained off - Largest flood in history
Update: A few more photo essays at EnglishVietnam Net — Van Phuc silk village and lots of pics with people fishing and a very happy duck.
And if you really can’t get enough — easy on the schadenfreude non-Hanoians — there’s lots of vids on youtube too. Here’s a bird’s eye view….
Tuesday, October 7, 2008
Vietnam Transport
By Air to/from Vietnam
Vietnam Airlines operates international flights to/from the following destinations: Amsterdam, Bangkok, Berlin, Dubai, Frankfurt, Guangzhou, Hong Kong, Jakarta, Kaohsiung, Kuala Lumpur, Los Angeles, Manila, Melbourne, Moscow, Osaka, Paris, Phnom Penh, Seoul, Siep Riem (Angkor Wat), Singapore, Sydney, Taipei and Vientiane.
TIP: Fares are significantly lower for those flying to Ho Chi Minh City. Although flights are available from the capitals of most Southeast Asian countries as well as from Sydney and Melbourne. The best place is from Bangkok as visas are easiest to obtain there.
Airport Tax International airport tax is US$14. The airport tax for domestic flights is VND 30'000 (in some cases VND 15'000). Remember to leave enough money for the International Departure Tax if you're flying out of Vietnam. They prefer dollars to Dong at Saigon airport - the exchange rate is extortionate if you're paying in Dong!
Domestic Flights
It is much easier and safer to travel between cities by plane and buy your tickets in Vietnam as they are cheaper. Most routes have a daily flight and are easily available and booking isn’t necessary.
Northern Airport Flight Service has helicopter flights to Ha Long Bay. There are 2 flights per week at 8:00 and 15:30 on Saturday, departing from Gia Lam Airport in Hanoi (not the international airport). You can get the tickets at the Metropolitan Hotel or
Nha Trang has daily flights to/from Ho Chi Minh City.
National Airport Code City
BMV Ban Me Thuot
DAD Danang
DIN Dien Bien Phu
DLI Dalat
HAN Hanoi
HPH Hai Phong
HUI Hue
NHA Nha Trang
PQC Phu Quoc
PXU Pleiku
SGN Ho Chi Minh City
SQH Na San
VIH Qui Nhon
VII Vinh
VKG Rach Gia
- Airlines
- Vietnam Airlines (International) 116-118 Nguyen Hue Blvd., Ho Chi Minh City. Tel (08) 292118
- Vietnam Airlines (Domestic) 27b Nguyen Dinh Chieu St. Ho Chi Minh City. Tel (08) 299980
- Air France Dong Khoi and Le Loi St. (Caravelle Hotel), Ho Chi Minh City . Tel (08) 241278
- Aeroflot 4H Le Loi St. Ho Chi Minh City. Tel (08) 93489
- Thai 116 Nguyen Hue Blvd., Ho Chi Minh City Tel (08) 292118
- Philippine Airlines Ho Chi Minh City Tel (08) 292200
- MAS116 Nguyen Hue Blvd., Ho Chi Minh City Tel (08) 30695
Bicycles
It is fun to rent a bicycle and to ride around. Rates are around US$ 2 for a day. It is also possible to buy bicycles and even mountain bikes, but beware of the quality. Maintenance is widely available, but original spare parts are rare. Instead, any spare part that "fits" will be used.
Boats
There are some boats between the mainland of Vietnam and the islands. Rach Gia to/from Phu Quoc takes 6 to 10 hours and costs around VND 90000. Officially, it should leave every day at 8 am in Rach Gia and at 10 am in An Thui. In reality it waits until there are enough passengers. This can mean day...so be prepared. Ha Tien to/from Phu Quoc This is officially not allowed, since the boat crosses Cambodian waters so if you catch one of these the risk is your own as to whether you get put behind bars for your efforts or not. Vung Tao to/from Con Dao There is a boat between Vung Tao and the island Con Dao. One way takes about 13 hours.
Buses
Traveling by road from Cambodia is a slow and expensive alternative to flying. The bus system runs almost everywhere within the country, with stations built around the country dividing the territory into regions. For longer trips buses tend to be slow and unreliable it is therefore generally advised that travelers fly in instead. Nha Trang/Ho Chi Minh City Express and regular buses link Nha Trang with Ho Chi Minh City; express buses take about 12 hours.
Mini Buses
It is possible to rent a minibus if you so desire and if there are a few of you, it possibly works out to be a cheaper way of getting around the country, though risky, due to the high number of accidents in Vietnam.
Cyclos
An excellent way to tour any city in Vietnam is to rent a cyclo. Rates start from around VND 15000 to VND 30000 for a ride of up to 10 minutes in Saigon. Locals pay half that price. You can also get a tour of one hour for US$1. In Hanoi prices are more related to the distance and are a bit more expensive. Each town seems to have it’s own price structure, so ask around to get some idea at the time.
TIP: Make sure that you hold onto any belongings when traveling in a cyclo as passing motorists and the like have been known to grab these as they pass.
The routes a cyclo may use is being limited by the government because they cause traffic congestion, so what seems to be a short trip could in fact become quite a long one because of having to take an indirect route, especially in Ho Chin Minh City.
Hire Cars
Car rentals are currently not in existence. Cabs, which are unmarked cars without meters, can typically be rented for the day. The rates are about US$25 to US$150 (depending on the car, the place you rent it from, the region and your bargaining skills). As with any form of transport in Vietnam, driving is a risk you take due to the high accident rate in the country.
Motorbike hire
It's easy to rent a motorcycle to get around. Usual rates are US$4 to US$7 for a day for a 50 cc to 100 cc Honda or Yamaha. If you rent a motorbike, make sure that you don't leave your passport with them and that in the contract they don't overcharge. Buy a big lock and chain as the motorbike theft rate is VERY high.
If you are in a hurry, you can try to flag down a motorcycle for a ride on the back (most drivers are not adverse to making a bit of extra money) or ask a local to find a Honda ong (motorbike taxi) for you. The biggest problem is explaining the destination to the driver because pronunciation is everything in Vietnamese. Carry a pen and paper or a map.
TIP: As in many Asian countries the standard of driving, to say the least, is atrocious and at times it will seem as if every vehicle on the road is going in the opposite direction to you. It is therefore generally advised that unless you are both a very experienced driver with a good medical insurance or a risk-taker, it’s NOT ADVISABLE to rent a motorbike at all.
Ships and Ferries
There are no official passenger services. Travelers may be able to ride on a cargo ship to Ho Chi Minh City, Danang or Haiphong from Hong Kong, Japan, Thailand, Singapore or France. Check with the local shipping and travel agencies for rates and availability.
A ferry service runs from Cambodia to Chau Doc in the Mekong Delta.
Trains
There are currently no train lines running between Vietnam and its neighbouring countries. The Vietnamese railway system runs from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi along the coast and links with Haiphong and the regions further north. Odd-numbered trains travel south and even-numbered trains travel north.
The fastest trains take at least 28 hours from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi. Reservations should be made a day or more in advance. The major setback to the railways is that tourists are charged many times more than Vietnamese people in the form of an outrageously high surcharge. For long distance traveling, it is best to fly.
Nha Trang Express trains run to/from both Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi.
Please note that the above time schedules and prices are subject to change and are therefore intended only as a guide.
Vietnam History
The history of Vietnam is one of the longest to be found in any country, with archaeological excavations revealing a past that goes back almost as far as earth’s recorded time. To study this extensive history in detail would take you, the reader literally years, thus I have cut it down, deleted some of the less important periods and have concentrated on those I feel will be of more interest to the general traveller considering visiting this fascinating and beautiful country.
The country has seen both prosperous times as well as years of slumber. Evolving over literally thousands of years Vietnam and its progressive expansions have always been under constant pressure from her powerful neighbour, China and throughout the county’s history, China features very strongly.
Vietnam has her own legends concerning the origins of the race but according to the history books the Vietnamese first
Hung Dao |
appeared as one of many scattered peoples living in what is now South China and Northern Vietnam just before the beginning of the Christian era.
According to local tradition, the small Vietnamese kingdom of Au Lac, located in the heart of the Red River valley, was founded by a line of legendary kings who had ruled over the ancient kingdom of Van Lang for thousands of years. Archaeological findings indicate that the early peoples of the Red River delta area were among the first East Asians to practice agriculture and by the first century BC had achieved an advanced level of civilization.
The Chinese Influence In 221 BC the Ch'in dynasty in China conquered the neighbouring states and became the first to rule over a united China. The Ch'in Empire, however, did not survive the death of its founder, Shih Huang Ti and this was soon felt by Vietnam.
The Chinese commander in the south built his own kingdom, Nam Viet (South Viet; Chinese, Nan Yüeh); the young state of Au Lac was included. In 111 BC, Chinese armies conquered Nam Viet and included it in the growing Han Empire. This conquest had fateful consequences for the future course of Vietnamese history.
Chinese rulers attempted to include Vietnam politically and culturally into the Han Empire. Administrators were brought in to replace the local rulers and political systems along Chinese lines were imposed. Confucianism became the official ideology. The Chinese language was introduced as the official language and Chinese script as the writing. Chinese art, architecture and music also influenced Vietnamese history.
Vietnamese resistance to rule by the Chinese was fierce but ineffectual and the Vietnamese during these times had a fondness for murdering anyone in power, including their families that weren’t popular, a practice that continued up until the 1600’s.
The most famous early revolt took place in AD 39, when two widows of local aristocrats, the Trung sisters, led an uprising against foreign rule. The revolt was briefly successful and the older sister, Trung Trac, established herself as ruler of an independent state. Chinese armies returned to the attack, however, and in AD 43 Vietnam was re-conquered.
Trung Sisters |
Independence The Trung sisters' revolt was the first in a series of uprisings that took place during the thousand years of Chinese rule in Vietnam. In 939, Vietnamese forces under Ngo Quyen took advantage of chaotic conditions in China and set up an independent state. Ngo Quyen's death a few years later prompted a period of civil strife, but in the early 11th century the first of the great Vietnamese dynasties was founded.
Under the astute leadership of several dynamic rulers, the Ly dynasty ruled Vietnam for more than 200 years, from 1010 to 1225. The rise of this dynasty encouraged a feeling of patriotism among the Vietnamese despite the retention of many of the political and social laws that had been introduced during Chinese rule.
Confucianism continued to provide the foundation for the political institutions of the state. The Chinese civil service examination system as the means of selecting government officials was retained and eventually not just men of noble background, but the general public could sit the test. The educational system continued to follow the Chinese model and young Vietnamese were schooled in the Confucian classics and grew up conversant with the ideas that had shaped Chinese history.
Vietnamese society, however, filtered through and native forms of expression continued to flourish. At the village level, social laws and lifestyle reflected native Vietnamese traditions more than Chinese.
The Ly Dynasty Primarily an agricultural state, most of the land was divided among the nobility. Some landholding
Ly Dynasty |
farmers also existed, however, and powerful monarchs frequently attempted to protect this class by limiting the power of feudal lords and dividing up their large estates. The Vietnamese economy though was not based solely on agriculture. Commerce and manufacturing thrived, local crafts appeared in regional markets throughout the area and trade grew.
Change and Expansion The Ly dynasty and its successor, the Tran from 1225-1400 helped Vietnam become a powerful nation in Southeast Asia. China though, still wanted to control the Red River delta and when the Mongol dynasty came to power in the 13th century, the armies of Kublai Khan attacked Vietnam in an effort to re-instate it into the Chinese Empire. The Vietnamese resisted and after several battles sent them back across the border.
Kubilai Khan |
kubilai_khan |
While the Vietnamese continued to fight the forces from the north an area of equal and growing concern lay to the south. For centuries, the Vietnamese state had been restricted to the area around the Red River valley. Tension between Vietnam and the kingdom of Champa, the seafaring state along the central coast, began shortly after the restoration of Vietnamese independence.
The Cham occupied the capital near Hanoi but were gradually driven further south. Finally, in the 15th century, Vietnamese forces captured the Cham capital south of present-day Da Nang. The following generations continued their drive south wiping out the remnants of the Cham Kingdom closed in on the Mekong delta.
Here it came up against, the Khmer Empire, the most powerful state in the region. By the late 16th century, however, its
Cham Ruins |
strength had dwindled and it offered little resistance to Vietnamese encroachment. By the end of the 17th century, Vietnam had occupied the lower Mekong delta and began to advance to the west, threatening to transform the disintegrating Khmer state into a protectorate.
The Le Dynasty The Vietnamese advancement to the south coincided with yet more trouble in the north. In 1407 Vietnam again suffered under the hands of the Chinese. For twenty years, the Ming dynasty tried to get Vietnam back, but in 1428, resistance forces under the rebel leader Le Loi won hands down and restored Vietnamese independence once more.
Le Loi became the first emperor of the Le Dynasty that maintained power for more than a hundred years. Then in the 16th century it began to decline again. Power then went to two rival clans, the Trinh and the Nguyen. When the former became dominant, the Nguyen were granted leadership in the south, subsequently dividing Vietnam into two separate areas.
By the late 18th century, the Le dynasty was near collapse. Nearly all the paddy fields were controlled by powerful lords, this in turn made the peasants angry which then led them to revolt and in 1789 Nguyen Hue, the ablest of the Tay Son brothers, a powerful family at the time revolted, briefly restoring Vietnam to united rule.
Paddy Fields |
Like many of his Vietnamese predecessors Nguyen Hue died shortly after ascending the throne; a few years later Nguyen Anh, one of the heirs to the Nguyen house in the south, defeated the Tay Son armies. He became Emperor Gia Long and established a new dynasty in 1802.
The French Pierre Pigneau de Behaine, a French missionary, raised a mercenary force to help Nguyen Anh seize the throne in the hope that the new emperor would provide France with trading and missionary privileges. The Nguyen dynasty, however, was suspicious of French influence.
Roman Catholic missionaries and their Vietnamese converts were then persecuted, and a number executed during the 1830’s. Religious groups in France demanded action from the government in Paris and eventually Emperor Napoleon III sent naval expedition in 1858 which he hoped would force the Vietnamese and the court to accept a French protectorate.
The first French attack at Da Nang Harbour failed to achieve its objectives, but a second further south was more
Napoleon |
successful and in 1862 the court at Hue agreed to cede several provinces in the Mekong delta, later called Cochin China, to France. In the 1880s the French returned to the offensive, launching an attack on the north. After severe defeats, the Vietnamese accepted a French protectorate over the remaining territory of Vietnam.
French colonial rule met with little resistance. The national sense of identity, however, had not been destroyed and anti-colonial sentiment soon emerged. Poor economic conditions contributed to hostility towards these new rulers and despite the French occupation having brought improvements in transportation, communications, commerce and manufacturing, colonialism brought little improvement in livelihood to the masses.
In the countryside, peasants struggled to survive, paying exorbitant taxes as well as working hard in the fields. Workers in factories, coal mines and on rubber plantations laboured in abysmal conditions for low wages. By the 1920’s, nationalist parties began to demand reform and independence. In 1930 the revolutionary Ho Chi Minh formed an Indochinese Communist party.
World War Until World War II started in 1939, such groups laboured without success. In 1940, however, Japan demanded and received the right to place Vietnam under military occupation, restricting the local French administration to figurehead authority.
The Communists seized the opportunity and organized the Vietminh Front that prepared to launch an uprising at the war's end. The Vietminh (League for the Independence of Vietnam) emphasized moderate reform and national independence rather than specifically Communist aims.
When the Japanese surrendered to the Allies in August 1945, Vietminh forces arose throughout Vietnam and declared the establishment of an independent republic in Hanoi. The French, however, were unwilling to concede independence and in October drove the Vietminh and other nationalist groups out of the south. For more than a year the French and the Vietminh sought a negotiated solution, but the talks, held in France, failed to resolve differences and war broke out in December 1946.
The French leave The conflict lasted for nearly eight years. The Vietminh retreated building up their forces while the French formed a rival Vietnamese government under Emperor Bao Dai, the last ruler of the Nguyen dynasty. Unfortunately Vietminh forces lacked the strength to defeat the French and were forced to restricted their activities to guerrilla warfare.
Emperor Bao Dai |
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emperor_bao_dai. |
In 1953 and 1954 the French fortified a base at Dien Bien Phu. After months of siege the Vietminh overran the fortress in a decisive battle. As a consequence, the French government could no longer resist the pressure at home and in June 1954 agreed to end the war. They divided the country at the 17th parallel, with the Vietminh in the North and the French and their Vietnamese supporters in the South. To avoid permanent partition, a political protocol was drawn up, calling for national elections to reunify the country two years after the signing of the treaty.
The Socialist Republic of Vietnam Today, the socialist republic of Vietnam is the unification of North and South Vietnam. Vietnam has established friendly diplomatic relations with many countries in the world.
In 1990 the European Union established official diplomatic relations with Vietnam. In 1992 Vietnam signed a 1976 ASEAN agreement on regional amity and cooperation, regarded as the first step towards ASEAN membership, which occurred in 1996. Vietnam established diplomatic relations with South Korea in 1992, the United States removed a trade embargo in 1994 and in 1995 Vietnam and the United States agreed to exchange low-level diplomats. By 1997, the two countries had established full diplomatic relations.
Peace has settled for the first time in many years and suddenly the country is reaping the rewards. Tourism is slow but beginning to boom and the economy improves almost daily. It has become the country of new discoveries and adventures with a potential that is only now showing it’s shy and beautiful face to the rest of the world.
Vietnam Top 10 things to do
- Crawl through the Cu Chi Tunnels This extensive network of nearly 500 km of Viet Cong tunnels used in the French Indochina and American wars. The tunnels have complete facilities, from kitchens to printing presses and even street signs, all of which were used to aid the NLF (National Liberation Front) military. Tours involve a description of the tunnels, after which tourists are allowed to crawl about the maze. Located in Tay Ninh a suburb it is 39km northwest of central Ho Chi Minh City.
- Dalat is the place to be if you want to visit interesting tribal villages. Although most are located further out of town, you can visit the villages of some of the hill tribes, such as Lat Village and the Chicken Village (with a huge statue of a chicken) close to Dalat itself. Don't forget your camera as the photo opportunities are endless!
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Ha Long Bay
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Du Hang Pagoda
- Hanoi has lots to offer the tourist but if you are in the city you can't afford to miss the History Museum that includes artifacts from Vietnam's prehistory: proto-Vietnamese civilisations (1st and 2nd millennia BC), the Dong Son civilisation (7th century BC to 3rd century AD), the Oc-Eo (Funan) culture of the Mekong Delta (1st to 6th century AD); the Indianised kingdom of Champa (1st to 15th century), the Khmer kingdoms, various Vietnamese dynasties and their resistance to Chinese attempts at domination, the struggle against the French, and the history of the Communist Party. It gives the visitor an excellent understanding of Vietnam's past and a better understanding of the present.
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Cuc Phuong National Park
- Visit Hoi An. From the 16th to 18th centuries, Hoi An was a thriving international commercial port for Chinese, Dutch, French, Japanese, Portuguese and Arab traders. These people came to trade primarily for the high-grade silk, which is still produced in the area, and ceramics. The area is now one of four world heritage listed sites in Vietnam and there are lots of interesting things to see and do in the area.
- Meander along the Mekong on one of the many boat trips that are available taking you across the water or through the local canals on many interesting sightseeing excursions that definitely require a camera. Larger boats venture up the Mekong River and this is a definite MUST DO if you are in the area of Cantho or one of the other cities or villages that rely on this massive sourse of water for both transport and food. Climb Sam Mountain near Chau Doc if you want to see dozens of temples, pagodas and the like as it is well worth visiting. Located about 6 km from the city, temples abound and the trek to the top of the mountain is also popular...though one can go by motorised vehicle if you so desire.
Visit Phu Quoc Island the largest island in Vietnam that lies in the Gulf of Thailand, 45 km from Ha Tien and 15 km south of the coast of Cambodia. Phu Quoc Island, part of Kien Giang province, is also part of an archipelago consisting of 22 islands of all sizes. The island covers an area of 585 km2 and is 50 km long. It is also called the Emerald Island because of its natural treasures and infinite tourism potential.
Vietnam Sightseeing
Vietnam is still opening up to tourists on an almost daily basis. I have listed some of the more popular local attractions throughout Vietnam below, which will then give you some idea as to how to plan your holiday in this fascinating country.
Cantho
Cantho is the political, economic, cultural and transportation centre of the Mekong Delta. Rice husking mills provide the main source of income and the area is linked to most other main centers in the Mekong Delta via the waterways and road/rail systems.
Boat Trips are available that take you across the water or through the local canals on many interesting sightseeing excursions that definitely require a camera. Larger boats venture up the Mekong River and this is a definite MUST DO if you are in the area.
Cantonese Congregation Pagoda was built on a different site originally but now stands where it is today. The pagoda occupies a splendid location facing the Cantho River.
Central Market is where you should go to stock up on fresh produce either direct from the farms or the fishing grounds nearby.
Floating markets are the Delta's prime attractions. Unlike those found in Bangkok, these markets aren't for the benefit of camcorder-toting tourists. Early each morning the Bassac River and its tributaries swell with vendors in sampans, houseboats and longtails jammed with fresh Delta produce: jackfruit, mangosteen, durian, papaya, mango, bananas, pineapple, guava, fresh vegetables and smuggled sundries from cigarettes to shampoo. The best market to visit is about 30 km south of Can Tho in Phung Hiep.
Ho Chi Minh Museum is the only museum in the Mekong Delta devoted to this ruler. It is a large museum, if you haven't been to a similar one elsewhere, is worth a visit.
Chau Doc
Chau Doc is a riverine commercial centre and is not that far from the Cambodian border. Once known for it's dug-out canoe races it is now better known for it's Cham and Khmer temples in its environs.
Chau Doc Church was constructed in 1920 and although small is interesting and for those of the Christian faith they hold mass here seven days a week.
Chau Phu Temple was built in 1926 and is decorated with both Vietnamese and Chinese motifs. Inside are funeral tablets with the names and biographical information on the dead.
Floating Houses, are well worth a few photos and it's worth it to hire a boat to see them better.
Mosques in the area consist of the Chau Giang Mosque and the Murbank Mosque. There are others in the area but those mentioned are the largest,. Visitors are permitted but please respect the faith and do not enter them during 'calls of prayer' which occur 5 times a day unless you are of the Islamic faith.
Sam Mountain is the place to go if you want to see dozens of temples, pagodas and the like and is well worth visiting. Located about 6 km from the city. Not only do temples abound but the trek to the top of the mountain is also popular though one can go by motorised vehicle if you so desire.
Tay Anh Pagoda is renowned for its fine carvings of hundreds of religious figures most of which are wooden. The building reflects both Hindu and Islamic influences and outside stand a black elephant (with 2 tusks) and a white elephant (with 6 tusks) as well as various monks tombs etc.
Temple of Lady Chua Xu faces Sam Mountain not far from the Tay An Pagoda and was founded in the 1820's. The original was built of bamboo, but this has been replaced over the years and the last reconstruction took place in 1972.
Tomb of Thoai Ngoc Hau who was a high ranking officer that served the Ngyen lords and later the Nguyen Dynasty is buried here. Nearby are several other tombs of similar officials serving under Thoai Ngoc Hau.
Cavern Pagoda also known as Phuoc Dien Tu is about halfway up Sam Mountain and is well worth a visit.
Dalat
The city of Dalat is the main centre of the Southern Highlands region. In the past it was renowned as a cool, green city with a park-like environment. This is changing fast, as the economy booms and life speeds up. Still, Dalat is definitely worth a visit and it's a good base for trips into the surrounding highlands, which remain tranquil. In Dalat, make sure you visit the Hang Nga Guesthouse & Art Gallery, nicknamed by locals the Crazy House. It's created by artist and architect Mrs Dang Viet Nga (known as Hang Nga).
Dalat is famous for its coffee shops, and is extremely popular with domestic tourists and honeymooners. You can fly to Dalat from Ho Chi Minh City. The airport is 30km from town; express buses also link the two cities.
The Emperor Bao Dai's Summer Palace is stuffed with interesting art and everyday objects, and is well worth a look. It's also interesting to stroll around the old French Quarter.
The Valley of Love, 5km north of the city centre, is a bizarre place where you can hire a paddle boat on the lake or a horse from one of the Dalat Cowboys (no relation to the Dallas Cowboys), who are, indeed, dressed as cowboys. There are some pleasant walks or rides (on horseback or bike) in the countryside around the city, but be aware that areas signposted with a C-sign are off-limits to foreigners.
Prenn Falls are worth a visit and are located at the foot of Prenn Mountain Pass. The 10km long pass is on the route from Dalat to Ho Chi Minh City.
Further out, you can visit the villages of some of the hill tribes, such as Lat Village and the Chicken Village (with a huge statue of a chicken).
SAPA, Vietnam
Sapa is an incredibly picturesque village that lies on the Hoang Lien Son mountain range near the Chinese border in NW Vietnam. It is called as "the Tonkinese Alps" You can see many hill tribe people, their villages, rice terraces, lush vegetation, and Fansipan, highest peak in Vietnam.
How to get here by tour
Very common and popular. Many travel agents organize tours from Hanoi. 4 days / 3 nights incl visiting the most famous Bac Ha Sunday market with $20-25.
How to get here by yourself.
There are many trains from Hanoi to Lao Cai. However almost all sleeper seats are controlled by travel agents. It is impossible to buy sleeper tickets. The seat tickets are available and a few 2nd class sleeper may be available at the train station without makeup.
From Lao Cai train station to Sapa
Many minibuses are waiting at the train station for Sapa. They are offering the service with 25-30,000D but local price is 20,000D. Bargain hard.
Arriving to Sapa
Your minibus stops at the area where many hotels are clustered. This is not the center. The minibus continues to travel. You may ask the driver to take you to the market or Royal Hotel, both are good starting points to look for a room. The entrance of the market is Cau May Street, where most budget accommodation can be found. More GHs are behind the market.
All rooms equipped with HW. Only expensive hotels have a/c but no need a/c. The view to the valley is the key to choose a room.
Weekends: always busy due to the Sunday market at Bac Ha, The most hotels put their prices up during weekend.
Tourist Peak & Dry Season: Mar - May, Oct - Nov. Good season for trekking.
Vietnamese Tourist Season: June and July
Rainy: June - August: and cold at night (Sapa is 1500m above sea level)
Winter: Jan - Feb: Cold specially at night. It sometime snows.
i Tourist Office: None: But you can get info at travel agents. Many in town. They all deal with trekking tours.
$ Agri Bank: M-F7:30-11, 13:30-16:30, Sa7:30-11:00, $1=16,103VD, US$ T/C -> VD com 1%
P Police: near the church.
H Hospital: 3km out from the town.
Hp Pharmacy: Many in town such as Cau May Street, the main street.
M0 Post Office GPO/ Telephone office: Summer 7:00-21:00 Winter 7:30-21:30
TRANSPORT
Train
There are many different classes for the train to Hanoi.
1. Hard seat, 2. soft seat, 3. fan hard bed sleeper, 4. a/c soft bed sleeper, 5 wood carnage, 6 Oriental Express carnage.
You can get 1 or 2 easily at the train station in Lao Cai and you can get 3 & 4 at Pathfinder(see below), but it is almost impossible to get "Wooden carriage and Oriental Express" classes. To get those tickets, ask at travel agents or your guest houses. When you order tickets, please make sure which class your tickets are for.
T Train Station: In Lao Cai. The most minibuses go to the train station. Tickets for night trains are sold after 16:30. Many people come so come early and stay in a line.
T1 Train Ticketing Sapa Pathfinder Travel: #13 Xuan Vien., T873468, sptravel@vnn.vn train ticket counter open only 7:30-11, 13:30-15:30. Ticket prices are offcial one. Commission for seat 7000VD, for sleeper 10,000VD
The cheapest tickets for lower class tickets.
Bus
B Mini bus to Lao Cai:
To Lao Cai: Mini buses leaves near the church when it gets full. Also you can get one in front of Royal Hotel.
local fare 20000/ tourist fare 25-30000D
To the border to China(called "guojing or goukyou")
Take a minibus heading to the Lao Cai train station. Get off just after crossing the bridge and walk to the left for 500m. Ask your minibus driver. Usually he will take you to the border.
B1 Bus station: near the entrace of Sapa. Bus only to Lao Cai. To Hanoi, you can get one from Lao Cai bus station.
B2 Tourist Bus:
Mini buses or jeeps organized by travel agents leave to Lao Cai and Hanoi.
Thursday, July 31, 2008
Ba Be Lake is a place with some of the most wonderful sceneries in Vietnam. The lake is in Ba Be National Park, which is about 250km north of Hanoi. It is near Bo Lu and Pac Ngoi villages, the home of Tay ethnic people.
Ba Be Lake is on a limestone mountain, at a height of 150m above sea level. As it looks similar to Halong Bay, the lake is also called "Halong Bay on the mountain." It has a water surface area of 500ha. It is more than 8km long, nearly 2km at its widest, and 20-35m deep. The lake is made up of three river branches - Pe Lam, Pe Lu and Pe Leng.
Around the lake are primeval forests and mountain peaks with the height of more than 1,000m. Seen from above, the lake shrinks in the middle and looks like a corridor between cliffs. In the center of the lake, there are islets with many species of orchids and birds. The lake has an abundant source of freshwater aquatic animals, with precious kinds of fish such as giant carp.
Two outstanding features of Ba Be Lake are its original scenery and geological conditions. It is one of the few lakes in the world on a limestone mountain. Studies show that the region of karst has been in existence for 450 million years. After millions of years, the limestone has been transformed into unique scenery for the lake.
Travelers to Ba Be Lake can boat on the lake or visit nearby tourist places in the national park such as Tien Pond, Po Gia Mai Island, Puong Cave and Dau Dang Waterfall. If they visit at the time of Long Tong Festival on the 10th and 11th days of the first lunar month, they can see traditional games, performances of martial arts, and the horn dance of Tay, Dao, Mong, Nung and Kinh tribal groups.
In 1995, at the world freshwater lake conference in the United States, Ba Be Lake was recognized as one of 20 special freshwater lakes in the world that should be protected. In September, 2005, the Vietnamese Government had its officials apply for world natural heritage site recognition for the lake.
Ba Ria Vung Tau (Baria - Vungtau)
Ba Ria Vung Tau (Baria - Vungtau)
Ba Ria-Vung Tau
Area: 1,982.2 sq. km.
Population: 897,600 habitants (2004)
Capital: Vung Tau City
Administrative divisions:
- Town: Ba Ria.
- Districts: Chau Duc, Xuyen Moc,Tan Thanh, Long Dien, Dat Do, Con Dao.
Ethnic groups:Viet (Kinh), Hoa, Cho Ro, Khmer...
Geography
Ba Ria-Vung Tau Province is located in the Southern Vietnam, to the northeast of the Mekong Delta. It shares its border with Dong Nai Province to the north and Binh Thuan Province to the east, Ho Chi Minh City to the west and East Sea to the South - east.
Ba Ria-Vung Tau is southern coastal province comprising a plain, 100m above sea level, declining gradually to 80km of beautiful swimming beaches. The national park on the island of Con Dao features important historical and cultural remains.
Climate: The province is favoured by sunshine and sea breezes, and has an average temperature of 28 degrees. There are two distinct seasons: the dry (from November to April) and the rainy (from May to December).
Tourism and Economy
Ba Ria – Vung Tau Province is a large tourist center. It has over 100km seashore with beautiful swimming beaches, as well as many lakes and thermal springs. The offshore bench has two kinds of importance resources: petrol and seafood.
In Vung Tau City there are Thuy Van, Chi Linh, Back, Front, and Dau beaches; Long Dien District has Long Hai Beach; Xuyen Moc District has Ho Tram, Ho Coc beaches. In Con Dao Island, tourists are able to swim in Dam Trau, Hon Cau, and Hon Tre beaches... then they can climb in Thanh Gia Mountain, Nho Mountain. If tourists would like to improve their health, they could go to Binh Chau Hot Spring, which its temperature comes up to 80ºC, then visit Binh Chau – Phuoc Buu Natural Preservation Zone.
Other popular places are Communal House of Dao Ong Tran, Ben Da Church, Bach Dinh vestige, Long Phuoc Tunnels, Minh Dam Revolutionary Area... and over one hundred Buddhist pagodas and temples such as Niet Ban Monastery, Thang Tam Communal House, Linh Son Pagoda, Dinh Co Temple…
Located in the 90km southern part of Vung Tau, Con Dao Island has a dense forest, which is Con Dao National Park with rich flora and fauna. The sea in this area is home to various valuable marine species. Especially, tourists have a chance of watching the turtle laying the eggs. It also used to host a convict prison during French colonial era, and later, during the American War.
Aside these, tourist can participate in some traditional festivals as Dinh Co Festival, Nghinh Ong Festival (Welcoming the Lord Whale Festival), play golf or watch dog racing in Lam Son stadium in Vung Tau City every Saturday…
Transportation
Vung Tau is 129km from Ho Chi Minh City, 95km from Bien Hoa (Dong Nai), 513km from Nha Trang (Khanh Hoa)
Road: Ba Ria – Vung Tau has National Highway 56 to Dong Nai Province, National Highway 55 to Binh Thuan Province, National Highway 51 to Ho Chi Minh City. Express buses leave for Bien Hoa, Ho Chi Minh City, My Tho and some others.
Air: There are flights from Vung Tau to the Con Dao Islands.
Boat: Vina Express operates hydrofoils from central Ho Chi Minh City to Vung Tau.
Con Dao Island
Really 16 islets covering 72.2 sq km, that were once used as a prison for Vietnamese communists.
Long Hai Beach
Clean white sands. A peaceful haven with expansive ocean views.
Binh Chau Hot Springs
Located in the Xuyen Moc District national park, the springs cover more than a square kilometre and bubble through 70 subterranean outlets. The water temperature ranges from 40 to 84 degrees.
Vung Tau city
A beautiful seaside town built on 5km of coastline, 128km north east of Ho Chi Minh City. Vung Tau is seldom affected by tropical storms. An ideal spots for relaxing, swimming and sun bathing.
Hai Dang
A vintage lighthouse built in 1870 that stands 170m above sea level on Hai Dang Mountain.
Suoi Tien
Its name refers to a legend that on bright nights angels come down from heaven to bath here.
An Giang (ChauDoc - LongXuyen - AnGiang)
Area: 3,406.2 sq. km.
Population: 2,170,100 habitants (2004)
Capital: Long Xuyen City.
Administrative divisions:
- Town: Chau Doc.
- Districts: An Phu, Tan Chau, Phu Tan, Chau Phu, Tinh Bien, Tri Ton, Cho Moi, Chau Thanh, Thoai Son.
Ethnic groups: Viet (Kinh), Khmer, Cham, Hoa.
Geography
An Giang Province is located to the west of the Mekong Delta between the Tien and Hau rivers and shares a 100km border with Cambodia in the north – west. It also shares border with Dong Thap Province in the east, Cantho City in the south – east, and Kien Giang Province in the south – west.
An Giang has two main types of topography: midland areas and low mountains. The low mountains is Bay Nui (Seven Mountains) in Tinh Bien and Tri Ton districts. Vinh Te Tunnel runs along with the province’s border in the west, which connects from Chau Doc to Ha Tien.
Climate: An Giang is divided into two seasons: the rain (from May to November), and the dry (from December to April next year). The annual average temperature varies 27ºC. The highest temperature is 35ºC – 37ºC from April to May and the lowest ones is 20ºC – 21ºC from December to January next year. The annual rainfall is 1,400 – 1,500mm.
Tourism and Economy
An Giang is main province in rice output. The province also has corn and aquatic products as basa fish, shrimp, cuttle... An Giang is also renowned as traditional handicraft such as Tan Chau silk, Chau Doc fish sauce and other consume products. Especially, long-standing handicraft weaves fabric industry of Cham ethnic group.
An Giang is famous for particular festivals as Ba Chua Xu, Chol Chnam Thomay, Dolta festival and ox racing. Other famous sites and attractions include Sam Mountain in Chau Doc, Cam Mountain in Tien Binh, Tuc Dup Hill, grottoes network of Thuy Dai Son, Anh Vu Son, Co To, and many historical vestiges.
Transportation
An Giang has a relatively convenient land and water transport system. National Road 91 connects to Cam-pu-chia. Buses run from Chau Doc to Long Xuyen, Cantho, and other destinations in the Mekong Delta.
Long Xuyen City is 62km from Cantho, 125km from My Tho, and 190km from Ho Chi Minh City. Chau Doc Town is 96km from Ha Tien, 117km from Cantho, 179km from My Tho, and 245km from Ho Chi Minh City.
An ode to Ha Long Bay
An ode to Ha Long Bay
It was my fourth visit to Ha Long Bay, but the first time my mother and I could together float on the sea, from sunset to sunrise on a large wooden junk.
Our three days and two nights on a the wooden junk named Valentine, of Indochina Sails may just be our most memorable trip together since I was 10 years old and accompanied my mother to visit the sea for the first time.
Now I was a 20-something girl, old enough to stretch by my mother’s side on two deck chairs and enjoy the darkness surrounding the numerous white limestone towers, not to mention the melodious ballads flying up from the wooden deck into the sky.
It was our first night on board, a moment so tranquil that it made a western couple stand up and waltz. At the time, our junk was still moving slowly ahead, passing through the cool sea-breeze and many gigantic limestone towers, which impressed us with their bizarre shapes in the darkness.
This wasn’t what we were expecting when we joined the newly - designed cruise.
We were excited the moment we took a tender to step onto the gigantic wooden junk, which resembled an ancient French-style palace floating on the sea. Passing through the glittering dining room, with its windows facing the sea, we reached our cabin. My mother and I immediately saw beyond the wooden doors: two parallel white sheeted beds, a jar of white Madonna lilies, two large windows covering almost half of the brown wooden wall, and a splendid view of the sea outside.
Our first day was spent relaxing on the deck and in our cabin, although there were various activities tourists could enjoy partaking in on land, such as visiting Bat Cave, Cua Van fishing village or Soi Sim Beach. Most of us were not interested in stepping off the junk, since it served as an idyllic day-trippers’ paradise. Lying on the beds at night, we could see both the high limestone towers and bright stars glittering in the dark sky.
We went to bed early that night. Perhaps it was the effect of consuming a few glasses of good red wine on deck, or the cool breeze coming in from the large window mixed in with the intoxicating air from the cream lilies, that served as soothing lullabies.
The second day began filled with energy as we woke up early to participate in a tai chi session on the sun deck. We then transferred to the day-trip boat and cruised to the bay’s most untouched areas. A buffet-style breakfast was served on the boat, which was not only impressive in its various delicious Western dishes, but also served very good Vietnamese pho (noodle soup).
By the time we completed our breakfast we had reached Ngoc Vung Island. It was sunny and none of us could refuse to take a light bicycle trip through untouched forests to enjoy the natural scenery here. After half an hour, we found ourselves in front of the endless white sand-beach with not a single human shadow in sight. From afar, the sea could appeared as an emerald. I changed into a bathing suit while my mother chose to relax under the cool shadows of the pine forest.
The highlight of the trip turned out to be kayaking in the afternoon, when our boat reached Cong Do area. All of us were very eager, although my mother seemed hesitant. She had never squeezed into a kayak before and she didn’t know how to swim.
Our yellow kayaks followed each other, moving in the low surf, with the warm waters of the sea lapping, and the cool breeze wrapping around us. The high rock formations seemed much higher when looked up and could make our way through all the narrow slots between the towers to discover a strange area where big boats couldn’t reach.
Our second day came to a good end with a delicious dinner, a grilled seafood feast, after which we went off to see people catching squids offshore. Passengers who caught squids could be found at our table for a second dinner, laughing away as they shared their funny stories.
The next morning our ship steamed forward to Sung Sot Cave, one of the bay’s most impressive limestone caverns. The entrance required a hike up stone steps to a spot high above the bay. More steps led into receding chambers, past humongous stalactites and stalagmites that resembled giant sandcastles.
Our cruise ended in the afternoon with us waving to the staff as we returned to land.
Many hesitate to vacation in a sailboat, but it is worth trying, for once you go, you will want to go again and again. It is advisable to go in a group, as you can share together all the wonderful moments of sitting standstill in the cool sea-breeze, listening to love ballads, sipping Vallformosa red wine, while the limestone towers all around move softly as the boat keeps drifting ahead.
Ha Long is like a story whose ending I thought I had reached but in reality I discovered that it has many alternative endings that need to be discovered, again and again.
Where the wild things grow
After a 40km drive from Hanoi and a long slog up the mountain side, I’m delighted to reach the ruins of Dam pagoda. Found halfway up the mountain, the thousand-year-old pagoda is now overgrown with weeds and bushes. Nature is once again the master of the land.
Walking towards the pagoda I try to picture it as it would have been – once upon a time. No doubt the structure was an imposing one. Large steles with feral looking animal-sculptures still stand tall, if not quite as tall as they once were, at around 5m.
On one pillar two dragons flanking a moon is symbol of Phallus Linga while the surf waves below represents Yoni, the feminine base, both imported motifs from Buddhism in India.
The pillar not only expresses the artistry of the sculptors and profound philosophy of my Vietnamese forefathers. – their aspiration for favourable weather, a prosperous country and reproductive race are evident.
Historically, the pagoda has also been known as Tam Cam pagoda, named after a folk tale about two half sisters,
Tam and Cam, which is sort of a Vietnamese version of Cinderella. After Tam’s mother dies, her father remarries and Cam is born. Tam is the more beautiful of the two sisters, but she’s horribly mistreated by her step mother.
While Cam enjoys a life of leisure, Tam toils under the sun. On the night of a royal banquet, The Goddesss of Mercy – or in some versions Buddha – helps Tam dress up in beautiful clothes, but in her haste she loses a slipper in a river.
The King happens upon the slipper and is so dazzled by its beauty he declares that any maiden at the celebration whose foot fit the slipper would be made his first wife.
Of course, no one’s foot fits, not even Cam’s much to her mother’s chagrin, until Tam arrives in her gown, minus one slipper. A marriage is quickly organised, though no one lives happily ever after just yet, as Tam is killed by the step mother, while Cam is sent to the palace to replace her. To cut a long story short, Tam eventually is reincarnated, while Cam is made into mam Cam – you know like mam tom.
Anyway, Dam pagoda was built in 1086 during the reign of King Ly Nhan Tong on Dam or Dai Lam mountain, the highest peak of Lam Son mountain range.
It was built by order of the Second Queen Mother Linh Nhan (or Y Lan, the infamous imperial concubine).
In her old age, she felt regret for her once nefarious ways – she compelled the First queen mother and 76 other imperial maids to commit suicide, amongst other things – so she built a number of pagodas to ease her troubled mind.
Dam pagoda was so immense it took eight years to complete and covered an area of 8,000sqm. The buildings had their backs to the mountain and were placed on four stone steps along the mountain slope. Each step was made from thousands of carved stones.
To make transporting materials to the construction site easier, a canal named Con Ten (which means Arrow) was built to link the mountain with Duong river.
Legend has it that after finishing the pagoda, seven families living on the foot of mountain were assigned to open and close all the doors.
Besides its harmonious architecture, which of course ticked all the right boxes of feng shui philosophy, Dam pagoda is also well-known for its sculptures which are considered the forerunners of classic Vietnamese sculpture.
But time wears out us all and after a period of neglect, the once opulent building fell to ruin last centruy.
The main building was destroyed in 1946 during the war against the French colonialists,” says Do Thi Quyen, the pagoda’s main caretaker.
A small, spare pagoda was built in the old foundation. Only Quyen lives there now with an allowance of $10 a month.
This paltry sum is merely enough for her to purchase some rice and vegetables. However, the old woman works hard cleaning up the grounds, gardening and clearing weeds and bushes on the old pagoda’s stone walls.
It seems that the weeds are growing too fast for one woman to stop them, but Quyen is an optimist.
“I believe that in the near future, our pagoda will be re-built as big as it was in the past. Monks came here to visit and said they would return here to build a new pagoda,” Quyen says with a smile.
I stand one more time by the pillar with the dragons roaring over the waves. It’s not by chance that a copy of the pillar is displayed in the front yard of the Vietnam Fine Arts Museum in Hanoi. Generations of Vietnamese artists have come here for inspiration and to admire the technique.
I take a seat and watch the sun moving across the landscape. The paddy fields stretch as far as the eye can see. A canal lined with lotus flowers flows towards the river. Old villages with brown tiled roofs sit quietly down the mountainside. The ancient pillar still stands between heaven and earth.
Nha Trang’s new island escape
Nha Trang’s new island escapeCoral reefs, edible lizards, and white sandy beaches are all a part of Hon Sam’s attraction. The familiar retreat for Vietnam beach lovers, Nha Trang, has added a new attraction – Hon Sam (Sam Islet).Hon Sam, which is managed by Nha Trang-based Long Phu Tourist Company, opened to tourists this month, so now is the chance to be one of the first to enjoy it.The layout of the islet makes it particularly special.It has two small mountains at either end, with beaches in between both sides within easy walking distance of each other.There’s a view of Nha Trang Town from the sandy beach on one side and nearby Thi Islet can be seen from the opposite side.The ocean surrounding the island is crystal blue and inviting, while Hon Sam’s flora is vivid green.There are natural forests and orchards of longan and oranges, which make contrast with other islands in the area.Daily tours around Hon Sam include caves and nature walks.Hon Sam is home to con dong (a species of sea reptile) which is prized for its delicious meat.The Long Phu Tourist Company plans to start farming these lizards.Tourists who love adventure can go sailing, motorboating, diving and rowing on bamboo rafts to nearby islets.Divers should not miss the magnificent coral reefs south of Hon Sam.To enjoy fresh seafood, tourists can take boats out to fish pens off the island to choose their own fish, which the restaurants on the islet will cook for them.Dang Thai Luyen, director of Long Phu Tourist Co., said all the services and facilities are still in the early stages and there will be more tourist activities in the future.
Exploring the land of martial arts in festive time
Local people in Binh Dinh Province are busier than ever this time as the festive air in this land of martial arts is getting hotter as the Tay Son-Binh Dinh Festival is only four days away.
For the forthcoming festival, which runs until August 3, a series of artistic and architectural works such as Quang Trung Museum, Temple of Admiral Bui Thi Xuan, the Twin Tower park and an artistic fountain on 28,600 square meters on Nguyen Tat Thanh Street have been restored and constructed.
A 180-page handbook on Binh Dinh's tourism in three languages of English, Chinese and Vietnamese and a 30-page manual in English and Vietnamese featuring 15 tourism destinations in Binh Dinh Province have also been published and hit bookstores countrywide and the tourism spots, hotels and travel agents, Binh Dinh newspaper reports.
Main events will include Tay Son martial arts, King Quang Trung battle drum performance, Miss Martial Lands pageant, and a classical drama performance highlighting the distinctions of the province.
There will be an incense and flower offering ritual at Tay Son sanctuary on August 1, and a drama with over 700 artists playing the roles of King Quang Trung and troops in the Tay Son uprising to remind visitors of a glorious time in Vietnam's history.
Binh Dinh is a coastal province with a rich seafood reserves for delicious and nutritious dishes. Therefore, tourists wandering to the land during this festive time should also not forget tasting the specialties of this area such as Chim mia (sugarcane bird), Nem Cho Huyen (fermented pork of Huyen market), bun Song Than (Song Than rice vermicelli), and banh it la gai (sticky rice cake with coconut or green bean stuffing wrapped in pinnate leaf).
As Tay Son is a sugarcane-growing area, sugarcane birds in big flocks often gather there and the locals catch the birds to make the special dish. The birds are roasted and should be used with Bau Da rice alcohol, a special drink from Bau Da Village of Binh Dinh Province.
Nem Cho Huyen is also another must-try when coming to this land. The specialty comes from Vinh Thanh hamlet, Phuoc Loc Commune, Tuy Phuoc District, and making the specialty is a tradition passed from generations to generations.
In this area, the fermented pork wrapped in guava and banana leaves is the popular finger food of the locals and it stands out from other nem in other areas for its not - so - tender, not - so - sweet flavor.
Bun Song Than (rice vermicelli from the river of deity) is also another traditional specialty of this land. The rice vermicelli is made by locals of An Thai Village of An Nhon District in the province.
It is said that the kings of the Nguyen Dynasty found this specialty so delicious that they summoned the craftspeople making this specialty to the former capital city in Hue to make the dish. However, without the water of the Kon river, which is also called the river of deity, the dish lost its special taste.
Before leaving the province, tourists could buy some banh it la gai as a gift for their families and friends. This cake is made from sticky rice and sugar wrapped in pinnate leaves and stuffed with coconut or green bean. It is a rural and simple cake but it could not be left out in the special days of the locals such as Tet holiday, death anniversary or wedding.
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
Can Tho - a delta gem
The Mekong Delta has such a lot to offer the curious tourist by way of culture, unique food and a special environment.
About 170km from HCMC, Can Tho is one of the Mekong Delta’s tourism hubs. The delta is Vietnam’s biggest granary and it is a great tourist attraction, too, because of its people’s friendliness, seasonal flooding, life in harmony with the environment that is crisscrossed with rivers and canals, and its population of 17 million people of Kinh (majority Vietnamese), Chinese, Khmer and Cham origins.
Eco-tourism involving exploring the waterways and countryside culture is a feature of the delta in general and of Can Tho City in particular. It is the gentleness of rivers’ waves and the sight of sampans and small boats on the canals that are lined with coconut trees and fruit-rich groves. There are durians, pomelos, rambutans, mangos, and many other kinds of tropical fruit. Sitting on a river bank and enjoying the fresh environment, the smell of water and paddy fields, and the common foods with tempting smells such as countryside-roasted fish and wine-steamed chicken eaten with pure de (Vietnamese traditional liquor) moves the hearts of many international tourists.
Can Tho is a must-visit because of its floating markets like Phong Dien and Cai Rang, part of the culture that has tourists flocking to the region. Small boats and sampans travel here and there at those markets and offer products of various kinds, an activity that can be experienced in few places elsewhere.
At night, tourists can travel on Ninh Kieu Wharf to enjoy the fresh air and local delicacies, as well as listen to don ca tai tu, a kind of southern traditional music. In addition, spending time in orchards and sleeping as a homestay with the locals are also special services in the region.
View from the top
While earmarked for major tourism development, Son Tra Peninsula for the time being remains a perfectly sleepy little getaway spot for those in need of exotic exploration.
For visitors to Danang who are tired of flopping around the beach all day and need some adventure, the clean and green natural beauty of Son Tra Peninsula is just the ticket. Just a few minutes drive from downtown Danang, Son Tra is a stunning mixture of mountains, sea and sandy beaches.
The peninsula rises up to 693m above the sea level and while it has long been an imposing sight from the city, it has remained relatively unexploited as a tourism spot, despite grand plans on the drawing board. From the top of the mountain there’s a breathtaking panoramic view of Danang City, the sea and more than 30km of beach which stretches all the way to Cua Dai Beach nearby Hoi An.
From a distance this stunning coastline looks like a long silk cloth flapping in the wind. When the French established a garrison on Son Tra Peninsula more soldiers are said to have died from an outbreak of disease while building it rather than during battle. A small cemetery, near Tien Sa Beach, by the port to the north of Danang, stands in their memory. During the American War, Son Tra was also home to a notorious base camp serving as the US military command post complete with a helicopter-pad.
There are two radar stations built by the Americans in 1965, which were known as “Indochina’s eyes of god”. The satellites are now used for civil aviation purposes. Son Tra serves as the lung of the locality as it is covered by lush green forest. In fact, Son Tra is a natural preservation zone covering more than 4,400ha containing diversified tropical flora and rare species at risk of extinction.
Son Tra is called Monkey Island as it was once home to a healthy colony of monkeys, although sadly visitors today are less likely to see many monkeys around. The sea around the island is still pristine with colourful coral and turquoise water making it a perfect location for scuba diving.
Although currently scuba divers and snorkeler should be careful as the sea can be a little bit rough. If you can’t resist diving there, you can check out the various diving packages offered by the Furama Resort down the road.
Son Tra is home to various beautiful beaches although they are not as long as Non Nuoc and Cua Dai. Visitors can enjoy fresh air and seafood in any number of small restaurants set up by locals. Grilled shrimp, fried squid and roasted crab are the perfect choice after bathing in the deep blue sea.
At the start of this decade the local authorities managed to lobby the central government to allocate part of the peninsula for tourism. Now there is a 20km-long road under construction that will run around the island offering breathtaking views of the sea and fishing boats below.